Finger strength climbing reddit. Maybe it is poorly tuned for heavier/taller climbers, not sure if it should follow the same curve for all weights as shorter folks usually need higher % pull/finger strength. Regaining lost muscle strength is apparently easer than building new muscle strength but is that the same for tendon and finger strength? Can I rebuild my finger strength as fast as rebuilding muscle strength? The question relates to how I would appropriately choose a training regime and avoid all possible injuries after a 10 years of not climbing regularly. 5” tall, and currently weigh 195lbs. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. Dedicated to increasing all our… Reddit's rock climbing training community. Find a problem in your gym that is particularly finger-y and work it regularly - you'll find improvements in strength but also in technique and body position as you learn how to make a difficult climb easier. Aug 8, 2023 · Learn how to use the Tindeq Progressor to perform the perfect finger flexor Critical Force measurements and optimize your endurance training! /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. I'm starting bouldering in the local climbing hangar next week and hoping this will help in both relative bodyweight strength and finger strength, Cheers Peeps, Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. I’ve been at this for about a month and absolutely love it. Finger pushups train for flat finger strength. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Omar is another guy who probably has 8C boulder strength but only climbs around 8A+ish. 7 pounds) with two arms. Recovery time is critical for strength and injury prevention. I generally climb v5, 11b-11c outside and I can only pull 40-45lbs for 10 reps and it feels like it's working my climbing muscles a lot harder than doing deadlifts with the tension block with 90-100lbs. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Mar 10, 2023 · For the psyched climber climbing in that V5 to V8 range, you can only safely add finger stress if you correspondly decrease your total climbing volume. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. Generally stronger fingers and crimp strength than the rest of my body. These are relatively small, light muscles. Train for finger strength and the tendons take care of themselves. trueHey all — new caliber here. Any decent training book (Horst, Neumann, Hague) will have recommendations for finger strength exercises that actually work, but almost all of them require a hangboard or a climbing wall. com Nov 9, 2022 · Methods of Training Finger Strength There are essentially 4 different methods in which you can train your finger strength: Climbing: Bouldering or climbing on a board Campusing: Either on a campus board or boulder wall Fingerboarding: Isometric hangs Lifting: Taken from grip strength sports However each method comes with its own level of precision in training, in other words how easy it is to Jan 26, 2024 · The importance of finger strength for climbers It’s obvious that our fingers play a crucial role in climbing, right? Have you ever come across a photo of someone clinging to a hold using only the tips of their fingers? Believe it or not, it happens! Finger strength is crucial in climbing, especially if you aim to climb hard. Grip type is extremely nuanced in actual climbing, while on hangboarding it is relatively one-dimensional. Here’s a video about how they are done. 5 years, am 5’ 8. Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. Climb V3-V5 indoors (V4-V5 on Vert/Slab/sloper/burley climbs or basically anything that doesn’t require true finger strength, V3 on any significant incline/overhang). I recently just started to be able to hang with a half crimp on a 20mm edge, but I don't think this routine is responsible for my finger strength gains, but it has allowed me to feel better on my climbing days to pull harder. D ynamometry is used for the finger flexors In experimenting with various types of finger training over the years (weighted hangboarding, repeaters, block pulls), I have come across concentric finger curls, and overcoming isometric pulls as a method to gain (potentially) more finger strength. 14b) sport. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger You'll train finger strength by climbing problems that are too difficult for you at the moment. 28 votes, 75 comments. Reply reply Reddit's rock climbing training community. In fact because I'm so strong I have to be really careful on slopers Just be patient, keep climbing and you will get stronger. ex shoulder stability or just technique under the fingerboard. I train grip maintenance / pre-hab exercises 2 days a week. At the end of the day, you've got to realise that climbing is still largely a skill sport and finger strength is not a be-all end-all, and if you don't put enough time and effort into working hard problems then your max hang numbers count for fuck all. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Fixated strength testing for climbers is where dynamometry of the finger flexors is performed but the upper limb is “fixated” meaning it cannot move. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. Dedicated to increasing all our… As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. When I try to move to 5. Avoid the finger strength training for now, injuries are your worst nightmare and will set you back more than anything. Finger Strength Training I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. 11. The thing is, fingertip pushups work your finger strength for, well, pushing, while the finger strength you use for climbing is pulling finger strength, so I wouldn’t recommend fingertip push-ups for climbing finger strength Apr 9, 2018 · Background Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. 10 votes, 43 comments. I don't think anyone follows a program with the specific purpose of strengthening the tendons in your hand, and I don't think it makes sense to do so. Sometimes weighted. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. So I plugged my result into the thingy, and apparently I've got the average finger strength of a V11 climber and the theoretical strength necessary to climb 8c (5. Given I once submitted 4 entries in 5 minutes to figure out what grade my finger strength was enough for I really don’t trust the data at all. In fact because I'm so strong I have to be really careful on slopers We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Check it out! Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Slopers as you mentioned I'm still bottlenecked by finger strength. My fingers were strong as fuck though. That said, I still struggle immensely with smaller, thinner holds. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. Add or subtract as much weight as needed so that you can hang at least 6 seconds, but fail before 12 seconds. You almost certainly have a lot of technique, footwork, movement that will improve with climbing and it’s not solely finger strength holding you back. Mar 26, 2025 · Finger strength gains can come from any climbing that has moves or holds that are taxing on the fingers—like bouldering at your limit—but the extraneous movement won’t translate directly to finger strength. I suggest you go back and re-read both the Base Fitness and Strength sections of the RCTM. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. What would you… In climbing, however, you need excess strength primarily in your forearms, as hand strength is often the weakest link. The only answer is time and consistency, introduce finger boards when there’s no climbs available that are challenging your fingers strength, or you’re adding weight to max hangs (after minimum a year of solid climbing) You theoretically can finger board now and probably avoid injury, but the reward for risk is not worth it. I loathe pinches as well. Yah, this is wrong. Hangboarding targets this important element of climbing. I’ve been climbing 3. This will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder and how much time you should invest in strength training to progress. I think I have weaknesses with overall power, contact strength, and severe overhangs in general. F = ma. See full list on climbing. Is this something that’ll naturally improve as I progress or is there something I should be doing to target it? Reddit's rock climbing training community. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. In the description it seems so, which isn't the same data in their assessment model from what I gather. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. Max hangs on a 14-20mm edge. The first is kind of pushing strength of the fingers and what arm wrestlers train for a lot, the latter is your "normal" grip strength. You can't grip with greater force than the structures themselves can withstand. Jan 5, 2022 · Tools Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer The Finger Strength Analyzer will allow you to see how strong your fingers are. Train on climbing days so you can rest your hands at least one day after. Non-Fixated strength testing is the opposite. Just a thought Reddit's rock climbing training community. Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. 232 votes, 68 comments. The drop in max strength might be because that way of testing finger strength is unusual for you now - f. Being a strong climber isn't a mathematical formulation of max_pull_up + max_hang. One, Two, Three. I recently listen to a podcast with Dan Varian, a mentor of Aidan Roberts and co-founder of Beastmaker, talking about the outcome of different types of grips on the strength of the individual fingers in relation to their position (flexed in dip or open) and how this is often reflected in climbing styles. This involves a hard session of fingerboard and campus board and pinch grip exercises done in a sort of superset rotation. While some routes offer generous, open-handed holds, others feature Dec 18, 2020 · Grip strength is one of the most critical aspects that differentiates a mediocre climber from an experienced one. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? Basically, at the moment I'm just cutting my climbing down to extremely low volume, trying to maintain my strength, and do more open hand and finger roll stuff with full range of motion exercises to resolve it. Here's the thing though, I've never climbed more than like 6b+ (5. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out Around about your grade I reached an impasse where finger strength was the limiting factor, I started hangboarding and it made a massive difference to me. Holds in real climbing are very complex, and the forces you apply on them are even more complex. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. I need to work on finger strength more and i was going to try out going to do finger curls at is it an effective method to build finger strength? How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. Grip strength is specific to the hand position. I’ve noticed my form improve and I e gone from struggling with simple V2s to mastering tougher v3s. 110 votes, 58 comments. I would argue they are a more controlled and easier variant on campus boarding. Apparently the 20mm edge size is a good baseline standard for measuring finger strength. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Just a thought Improving finger strength is definitely the end-game for climbing harder, and if you're going to start down that path, really commit to it. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). 5 pounds) with a body weight of 67kg (147. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Thanks for this, inspired me to swap from barbell finger rolls to tension block finger curls on a lat pull down machine. Hangboarding is the method by which you increase your finger tendon strength. Power endurance: 6b Pulling power: 7a Climb consistent 7c/7b+ in a session, and have climbed two 7c+ in world class climbing areas in the past few months. If someone asks me specifically how to improve their grip for bjj, telling them to deadlift is bad advice. Hangboarding is both pretty similar and pretty different from lifting weights. I was a rock climbing for 5 years and while my grip was better than average, I wasn’t spectacular at holding onto deadlifts. 5 hangs, 10 seconds each, with 2-3 minutes rest between each hang. I recently started climbing on the Woods board since my gym just got one and its all flashy and new, and its a blast! In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. I’ve been climbing for ~4 years with a focus on bouldering and generally climb 3-4 days per week, now at a v5-7 level (indoors). Alternatively, you could begin a dedicated strength phase in which the climbing becomes the training intervention—i. you stop climbing set boulders and, instead of starting to fingerboard Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak. If you really want to see progress on the fingerboard, maybe some weeks of light training with it will make you able to hang with more weight. Edit: someone asked this and they confirmed it’s the my fingers data. Somewhat new to climbing but when I watch videos demonstrating good technique, the climber smoothly moves like water between… Reddit's rock climbing training community. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. So I've been climbing for about 1 year, 9 months and recently have tried lattice finger strength testing on their 20mm fingerboard to find my 1RM. 10d is difficult but I am still completing most routes within 1 to 2 tries. Muscles in the forearms contract the fingers, so "finger strength" is "forearm strength". The blurb They are very different types of gripping. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Every video I've watched on finger strength assessment has subjects hanging on 20mm edges with various amounts of added weight or lengths of time. My compression is still like 3 grades better than anything else if it's an exclusively compression route like a corner. 11s, it seems that I need to focus more on grip strength and leg movement/hip balance. I have incredibly weak fingers that I’m looking to strengthen. Improving finger strength is definitely the end-game for climbing harder, and if you're going to start down that path, really commit to it. Your hand would explode. Things like finger extensors, pronators, easy grippers, rice bucket work, baoding balls etc. I was rather surprised, and somewhat dismayed, to find that my fingers are apparently incredibly weak. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. . Over the year and a half I've been climbing I've gone from my powerlifting weight of 180 to a much more mobile and athletic 170 while gaining tons of finger strength from "just climbing" and some low volume hangboard and moonboarding. 5. If you r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. The resiliency of tendon structures in the fingers contribute a lot to grip strength. While its possible finger pull ups aren't appropriate for you depending on your current finger strength and climbing experience, they are in no way pointless or reckless. Nov 9, 2022 · Methods of Training Finger Strength There are essentially 4 different methods in which you can train your finger strength: Climbing: Bouldering or climbing on a board Campusing: Either on a campus board or boulder wall Fingerboarding: Isometric hangs Lifting: Taken from grip strength sports However each method comes with its own level of precision in training, in other words how easy it is to Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). It has been shown to reduce injury risk by exposing the fingers to supramaximal loads in a controlled environment and to improve performance by allowing you to climb harder and more frequently 1. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. Feb 17, 2023 · I train climbing grip strength one day a week only. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. There are two types of finger strength: flat finger strength and curved finger strength. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. 11 hump? Maybe I don't really relate my hangboard numbers to my climbing, except in that I simply use it to rehab or improve finger strength. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. Climbing is a mental and technical skill sport that requires regular practice and devotion, and paying attention to your finger strength is crucial if you want to climb safely. Can anyone give me some tips that helped them get over the 5. In terms of finger strength, id like to note that ive been climbing around 3-4 times a week for the past year with no supplemental training. It sounds like you're on the right track. No hangboarding or campus boarding. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. which is +37. e. here) I find this quite surprising because for me, my index fingers are significantly stronger than either middle or ring How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? Reddit's rock climbing training community. But ARC is way to far down that line, 30 (first post on Reddit ever so be kind :D) I notice a lot of climbers default to their middle finger for mono pockets, and even read some forums wherein the general consensus seemed to be that the middle finger is the strongest, followed by ring finger, then index???!! (eg. From what I've seen of weightlifting things, the general consensus is that low intensity, high reps is better for tendon strength. Hence, worthless, completely and utterly--at least if you're trying to improve your climbing. Hey Guys and Gals, I have been climbing for about 2 months now (just at the climbing gym) and have hit my natural limit at 5. 12a) sport at my local climbing gym. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. Anecdotal, but: I weight trained for years before climbing (lots of wrist curls as well because I had little baby wrists naturally). Do this after a thorough warm-up twice a week. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. Reddit's rock climbing training community. This can be accomplished by strapping the arm down, placing it is specialty device, or simply just resting the elbow on a table so that it cannot move. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately holding me back. 5kg (82. You've got some misconceptions about the anatomy of the fingers and forearm for one thing. Apr 7, 2024 · Introduction to Arm-Lifting finger strength training Finger strength training is essential if you want to improve your climbing. Looking for some advice. I said I’d try them out because I like to see if certain things work for me or not like my iontophoresis and antihydral experiments for dry fingers. 11a) sport grade outside and 7a+ (5. Despite this I perceived my strength climbing on edges, esp smaller positive edges, but now edging in to V10 I feel it may be a limiting factor (of course it's problem specific but let's say generally for fingers problems). adm nxqam nfona tsybrg gmvp kqpsa wmflpq vhc xdjp weme