Tension board vs moonboard reddit. We compare the difficulties of one V3/V5/V7 .
Tension board vs moonboard reddit. Kilter Board: Softer overall but denser in the V0–V6 range, which might be ideal for newer climbers. I really like the idea of wood holds and love the feel of the tension board at the gym. Didn’t know the history behind Tension or Kilter. r/a:t5_4aoubb: For all things Moonboard, Tension board, and Kilter board. Build an adjustable angle moonboard mini There was a good thread here where ppl documented their hardest send on all the different boards. 2 v grades harder than outdoors or other boards! It's less tweaky than the moonboard, and has good enough holds to learn board style movement in a relatively safe way. LED lights and community set problems are a must have. Other differences include: I built the kicker height at 10", instead of the spec'd 6". I don’t climb super hard (5. Is it even possible to discern between the boards? How does a person define the best MoonBoard? Wondering about people's experience of the dificulty between the different moonboard sets, ie 2016, 2017 and 2019? Benchmarks that is. You’re also only a year into climbing and the board training will be difficult at that level given less technique. I have read that climbing on the Moonboard is very 1-dimensional and it would probably not make me a well-rounded climber but it's just so fun. It… 20 votes, 65 comments. You could focus on steep gym boulders to build up your strength, then come back to the Moonboard. I would argue that using a board is probably the one climbing related "exercise" that will help you become stronger climber. Jan 23, 2024 · Having researched prior threads, watched videos and discussed it with my training group, I thought I would renew the conversation. I think the Kilter shines best at 50 and above, especially if you have access to a 45 or a Moonboard at 40. The moonboard app also considers the entire kickboard to be on, whereas the tension board app allows you to select which kickboard footholds are allowed. A gym with a good training facility would be great too Cutting feet is normal, you definitely won’t keep your feet on for every move. Everyone has opinions on the best board, so you'll never find consensus. In general there are a lot of positives to board climbing such as learning to try hard, training core, pulling and fingerstrength at the same time while the only but IMO hefty downside is that you Other notes: The wider board is awesome and allows more movement and longer problems than other boards. Decent amount of sloping non positive hold profiles. It translates great to outdoors with focus on body tension and generating power from difficult body positions. sandbagged). Dedicated to increasing all our… The challenge I find with the moonboard is the style of climbing is powerful, tension focused and you need to get used to the different types of holds, which is why is why It feels difficult when you first try it. Dec 11, 2021 · The Tension Board is an 8’ by 12’ symmetrically-set board with all wooden holds made by Tension Climbing. I don't want to set my own problems, so I'm thinking about something like the moonboard mini (8'x8' size). What things have you found effective at increasing bouldering performance/ finger strength on a board? Please no moonboard/other brand specific answers. If you’re climbing V10+ or aiming for elite outdoor performance, the Tension Board may help you get there. Because of that I decided to add a pulley system so I can adjust the angle of the board from 20 degrees to 40. . Obviously I'm discussing the moonboard here, but if you have another system board or a spray wall with some gnarly old-school crimps and a good community of people who set regularly on that wall, jump on that too! This has just been my experience. I'm not the strongest climber and the moonboard at the gym is quite difficult for me. I'm new to this subreddit so please excuse me if I break any guidelines with this post. I haven't personally tried the 2019 set so can't speak to how good it is/how many benchmarks there are. Now if your goal is to climb an overhanging Boulder at roughly 30-50 degrees then the moonboard or tension board become somewhat short cutting tools. Mar 3, 2024 · I have a MoonBoard at home and so have mostly used that over the past five years, but recently started using the Kilter Board more, as the adjustable ones become more prevalent at gyms. Any advice and tips to get started? I climb around 6b-6c+ on lead and bouldering perhaps V4/5? It sounds like the Moonboard is too hard for you at the moment. For those who own a Moonboard Mini: - How did you decide on this setup compared to other short boards? - Did you build the panels yourself or buy a DIY kit? LED or manual? - What was your total cost? - What hold configurations did you choose? For those who own one easy hang boarding during my standard 30 min warmup. The mini style is definitely different and if you want the moonboard style of climbing more than you want a system, i would just build a spray wall. I think it was a mistake to put the red holds on the MB master set. easier tension board or similar spray wall for volume. I can do 2-3 grades harder on the 2016 Moonboard compared to the Tension Board, but my buddy is the opposite. A few questions: What's your ceiling height? I see there's no kick-board, is that standard for the home wall? I'm guessing that helped with the vertical height restrictions too. The obvious advantage of this is the ability to train balanced movement Nov 25, 2023 · Still undecided about the Moonboard vs Kilter Board for climbing training? The distinctions are explained in this guide to help you choose. So far I am pretty happy with this, as it feels like the most out-door like of all widely available pre-set boards. Another thing to take into A mirrored board is an idea that stood the test of time, but there are significant drawbacks to the tension and kilter boards that they are progressing on. I view Tension to be the most training Oriented w/ symmetrical holds and lots of pinches. Ondra, Garnbret, and Woods have all recently said they rely almost exclusively on spray walls (or boards) for training. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. Even the climbs I can do are so physically uncomfortable that they aren't enjoyable. Tension board (even TB1) in general seems to have the best variety of styles in my opinion. The Moon Board is powerful, fingery, and compact. We have a Kilterboard and find it much more friendly for ‘easier’ climbing with generally bigger holds than the Moonboard (or Tension board) and with problems starting at V0. However if you have space, why wouldn't you build a full size board? Full size moonboard has more benchmarks, more combinations of holds, more dynos! Styles are different, lots of tension in mini, lots of bigger moves on full size so my gym recently installed a new moonboard 2016, how should i go about it? i currently finished 14 v4 benchmarks, should i finish all 78 before moving to v5 and so on? I've been training on exclusively a moonboard and hangboard (in my garage) for 3 years. You need to climb ones you're interested in to see what you prefer. Reddit's rock climbing training community. My gym replaced the moonboard with the TB2 and the grades feel way more all That being said, boards only provide a very limited style of climbing, and there are people who anecdotally climb harder on boards than outside. Jun 9, 2025 · In terms of grading: Tension Board: More consistent, smoother difficulty curve. The moonboard app doesn’t differentiate between hand holds and footholds, which makes sense given that most of the moonboard holds make decent handholds. We asked one of our instructors to give you a quick introduction to what all these training boards and what climbing goal each board is designed to help you with. Got a moonboard at my gym, nothing like those V3 benchmarks to remind you you’ve got plenty to work on. Cool article. keeping feet on - why and when for each? Big question and very long post, but what are the advantages and disadvantages of jumping/cutting vs keeping a foot (or both feet) on when climbing the moonboard? Are my thoughts below correct? What insights am I missing? However, I quite like the MoonBoard style and other boards, like the Tension Board 2, for example, are quite expensive. r/boardbeta: For all things Moonboard, Tension board, and Kilter board. I heard board climbing is really good at building strength as opposed to do the (often coordination heavy, but kinda fun) boulders in the gym, so I was thinking of trying it out. Climbed on the Moonboard for about two years and fell in love. Moonboard, Kilter Homewall, and TB2 are consistently in the top. I'm considering buying an at home board at some point in the next few months, and I'm curious how these 2 (or 3) boards stack up with each other. I didn't expect generic board answers and clearly downvote hate, lol. Jul 27, 2025 · #climbing #bouldering #rockclimbing @moonclimbingofficial @tensionclimbing @KilterClimbingGrips Pros and cons of the Moonboard, Tension Board, and Kilter Board . 104 votes, 75 comments. Noticed one user here has in his profile 7C+ bm 2016 and 7A+ @2019 sounds like a rather big disparity. Grading is still all over the place but getting better. The new set is all screw on so not too much work. I wanted to get everyone's input on what sorts of things I should do/practices I should start to get the most out of the board. 100 vpoints as fast as possible or just set clock 1 hour. Anymore, and your body has difficulty recovering in time for your next session. Hi Everyone, I'm about to have my 2016 Moon Board complete and, for life reasons, it will be my main form of rock climbing for a while going forward. If you want a system then imo it's 100% you should build a mini over a chopped full board. V7 on the Kilter feels like V4 on the Moon. Obviously this really restricts the number of moves that I can do on each problem vs a full size 12' wall with a kickboard. It also has the Most boards are “sandbagged” compared to soft indoor commercial gym setting. Warmups with indoor climbs keep my abilities up with the wall, so you don't get specialized Hi all, I've got a trip to Toronto coming up this weekend and wondering what gyms people would recommend for bouldering in the city. I think 3-7 move problems is really the sweet spot for developing strength/power while actually climbing. Failing on the Kilter board doesn't feel gratifying either. It looks like Rock Oasis is close. *Please note I find the Kilterboard around two grades easier than the Moonboard 2016 (on 40*) and the 2019 moonboard consistently being two grades harder than the 2016 board. I spent the last month building a mini moonboard. Reply reply Lavendler • Oct 19, 2020 · In accordance with a Reddit suggestion from Miles Adamson, climbing three days a week, if you are only climbing on a MoonBoard, might be best. Ravioli Biceps, disciple of our Lord and Savior Ben Moon, once said: "… Does anyone with a Tension Board or Moonboard have a good reference for how to install one? The Tension Board installation guide is just for the LED kit and holds. If the average climber spent a full session focused on, say, spray wall climbing just once every few weeks I predict the sandbag claims would mostly go away—I believe it's a comfort issue. Finger injuries are also less likely on the Tension Board The wood holds are OK, not as varied as Tension board holds and weirdly rough on your skin because of the layered wood material. A lot of moderate climbers on the moonbaord get injured. In my opinion, The mini is both fun and effective for those who boulder 7B (outdoors) or harder I mainly board climb, mostly tension and moonboard as well as a spray wall. These problems were selected by Moonboard moderators as routes of high quality and a good representation of the grade (i. I am significantly stronger than him, but he has significantly better technique than me. I’ve done 40+ 7A-7B (out of 224 BMs in total) on the 2016 but haven’t been able to do a single 7A on the 2019 board. power, timing, precision, contact strength, etc. I dont think its a body tension problem, I find its more power generation and finger strength, I think. ). Open my app and realize I've been attempting 2019 problems on a 2016 setup How do you structure/approach a board climbing session? Pretty simple question, hoping for some insight into people’s habits. You have to warm up properly and have to think about taking the risk of using the pockets. I think in general moonboard climbing tends to have more power and strength minimums for its climbs compared to Basically, at least in my eyes, the Moon Board is a slightly older Ford that still runs great, The Tension is like a new Ford, and the Kilter Board is an Aston Martin, with the price tag to match. raw power from the Tension/Moonboard at lower angles. Not considering the Moon board. gym exercises? I've climbed on Tension, Moon, and original Kilter boards before and I daresay, the 10x10 Full Ride from Kilter smashes them all. MoonBoard vs Kilter Board vs hang board vs campus board - what's the difference!? If you’ve ever wondered to yourself what these training boards are, how to use them, and how they help you train - you’re in luck. Moonboard: Cutting feet vs. And does it seem more advantageous to stick with a gym that has a moonboard and a quality spray wall versus a bigger bouldering area plus a kilter board? I'm in the planning stages of building a home climbing wall in my basement, and looking for some advice. Many demand big moves using dynos and dead-points. Lots of thin pinching too. I had the 2016 set up for about half that time, then i bought the red holds and changed over to the 2017 masters set up. The original tension board is pretty powerful and has the smallest, most aggresive crimps of any commercial board but plenty of jugs too so lots of potential for big throws on good holds or tensiony moves on truly bad holds. MoonBoard Pros: • Kicker panel with downsloping footholds is a great way to work body tension • Holds have individual personality, with the various colors and materials (plastic and wood), and you come to trueCan someone share how their tension board 2 grading compares to their red point grade (preferably outside, but inside if you’re an indoor climber)? How about to indoor and outdoor bouldering grades? I don’t think the grades matter all that much but it’s a helpful benchmark when planning out some training. That said, I knew within the first 10 minutes of climbing a Tension board that I Tension shines best at 40-50 imo. Its definitely the best set up yet but the grades are really tough. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. If your gym has a Tension or Kilter board, those are both much more accessible (they start at V0, generally have softer grading than the Moonboard, and are often adjustable to shallower angles). I distinctly remember a couple benchmark v4s and v5s that absolutely crushed me, and this was only a couple weeks after I had returned from a Squamish trip where I had sent my first v10. After working a few sessions on the Tension and getting better, I figured I would try to Moonboard again. Ultimately, it depends on your goals. Reply reply crustysloper • We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's never busy here. e. trueThe Moonboard is pretty specific with what it emphasizes, i. Wall walkers: Very, I mean very, small gym. Kilter Board?) Hi all. Sep 13, 2020 · I reckon you'd be happy with whatever you end up going with, but one thing to think about is the size of the community on each of the boards. I did this because, well, I am not super strong (yet!). 0 vs Tension board 1 for training? Does anyone out there have experience TRAINING on both boards? Which is better? Strengths vs weaknesses of each board? What are the climbing style differences you’ve noticed between boards? Does one do better with training technical problems? So Ive been trying to incorporate more woody/ board training into my sessions/ plans and particularly on the moonboard I struggle with the lowest grade routes. All of these options are going to provide you with a fantastic option to improve and have fun but the Home Wall Full Ride does so much right packed into a 10x10 foot square. Also, I have only been climbing around 10 months. Moonboard is definitely the most universal of the three in terms of number of climbing gyms with a moonboard and a particular hold set. How exactly do hangboarding, campusing, and moon/tension/systems board climbing differ in making you crimp better, and what can you do to test which would be the most helpful? Kilter board imo is a good board for training at 45° and past, not enough load on your fingers at lower angles for folks who climb 7c-8b to be relevant towards outdoor climbing. Mar 26, 2024 · Longtime board fanatic Matt Samet tested the Tension Board 2, the MoonBoard 2024, and the Woods Board. Tension board 2. I'll be starting a fresh Moon Board account, so I was primarily trying to think of different types of problem lists I I've had the moonboard in the past, but in regards of Tension vs Moon vs Kilter. Tension board is basically a spray board that has a wide variety of hold types and allows you to make up whatever you want. I've been eyeing the moonboard (but getting the height clearance is tough), and I've never used Kilter. Regularly send V7/8 range problems in the local gym, some feel easy, some require a lot of effort. I was asking a fairly simple question as someone that prefers the moonboard to all other boards, but hasn't tried the kilter board yet. 28 votes, 40 comments. 8K subscribers in the Moonboard community. Sick. Everything Moonboard related. 50+ crushers for data points and on average moonboard was about 1. I just can't keep my hands on the holds and struggle with maintaining body tension. The 75% day can be programmed as a strength day or a power endurance day depending on your needs. Which climbing board is best for you? You can apparently set up the new 2. Kilter board seems a little too juggy, but to each thier own. They will probably be better, but the question is will they be better enough to sway customers towards a board with a smaller community vs an established product. How difficult would it be to create one independently of the tension company that connects to the board? 22 votes, 32 comments. Unlike traditional symmetrically-set boards (called systems boards), Tension’s version does not just allow the execution of mirrored isolated movements but is designed to create entire mirrored boulder problems. Wood versus plastic, symmetry versus the asymmetrical What are your takes on moonboard vs kilter board. I have approximately 92" vertical to work with which only gives me enough to build a 10' wall at 40 degrees or a mini-moonboard style setup. What wall would you get? Tension Board 8x12 fixed at 40, full 12” kicker Tension Board 8x12 fixed at 30, no/reduced Switching between the 50° School Room board and the 2019 MoonBoard has made me realise how sandbag the grades are on this new 2019 set up. Would love a follow-up of how you feel about the app, problem sets, community, etc. Kilter, tension, mini moonboard etc? What are your thoughts? How do they stack up compared to a MB? Cheers I’ve got a TB1, which I love, but I would go for a TB 2 due to the better lighting system, and greater variety of holds / styles possible on that board. Anyone else has a similar experience? I tried the Kilter board at a different location the next session and sent even higher grades than the Tension. 8' x 12' Training Boards (Kilter vs Moon vs Tension) - Seeking Input From Users Hey Everyone, I'm looking to build a fixed 40 degree, 8'x12' training board this summer and want to hear people's opinions on these three systems and their variants (and even the lesser known grasshopper and decoy boards). How much time should I devote to the boards vs. For my training, I have use of a Moon Board (40*), Tension Board (30*), campus board, and a gym with hangboard/equipment for weighted pull-ups. Climbed V8 outside, V7 BM on the moonboard (I’ve sent 6 V7 BMs) V7 on tension board. ) It’s more suitable for V6+ climbers looking to train power and tension for rock. Moonboard and tension have shit holds and are much better at training finger contact strength. I find the Tension board a lot harder to use without LEDs than the Moonboard, given the number of small footholds that are often close together. I visited Whetstone climbing gym and there are 3 most popular boards in it, which are Moon, Kilter, and Tension. in summary: a lot of moderate climbers on the tension board only use 30% of the holds. (You can get a very good sense of the style by following raviolibiceps on Instagram. Personally I like using the Kilter for power-endurance problems that circle around the board. My gym has a kilterboard. I think that makes it feel a bit more repetitive than the other two. Tension is probably close, and Kilter is a long way behind both in my experience. I’ve only done one 6C+ and can’t even finish all 6B:s. I have two main questions: My garage has 9ft ceilings, here are my options for actual size of the board: 45 degrees with a 6 inch kick board 50 degree board with a full kickboard Somewhere in between the above Given the above options, what would be the best route to go for moonboard vs tensionboard and if moonboard, what hold sets? 8x12 Moonboard (2016, 2017, 2019, whichever) 7x10 Kilter Full ride home wall 8x10 Tension board 2 I absolutely love the moonboard, but the hold density is lacking compared to the kilter full ride and TB2. Rocksports: Only good for the moonboard. The Tension Board 2 is the first standardized LED climbing board designed for comprehensive skill development, offering incremental progression and experiences for all levels, from beginner to expert climbers. Moonboard problems involve a lot of power, tension, finger strength, and footwork on insecure moves. Reply reply dubdubby • Crank: Good for sport climbing and top roping, don't bother with the bouldering unless it's for the kilter board. Unfortunately, I don't think I'm quite strong enough for moonboard mini problems, so I've thought of two options to make it more accessible. Would love to get some thoughts on this. They’re fairly close to outdoor grades imo, at least the moonboard is anyway. That wasn’t particularly instructive, so I thought I’d share my experience with the two I’m familiar with (Moon and Kilter). That might work better for a board like a spray wall, Tension or Kilter Board rather than the Moonboard, but has been a useful framework. I also noticed on Tension's instagram that there are 2 tension board in Toronto and if possible I'd like to try one. The feet are often very slippery. Just keep working at it and you’ll improve tension over time. Tension board - open source app In discussions about what to do about the awful new tension app, several people have brought up the possibility of an open source app for the tension board. 0 set on the same layout as the original tension board, with some slight adjustment to lighting. Tension Board (vs. trueFirst couple sessions on moonboard were difficult for me as well. The good holds can be used for dynamic stuff and make the Moonboard more attractive for beginners. Don't know why people insist on calling all board grades sandbagged when they're more in line with outdoor grades than anything else (but some Moonboard benchmarks are sandbagged, I'll admit). In October I put up a Mini Moonboard. If you’re willing fork over the cash to build one (significantly pricier than building a Moonboard or your own spray wall) this would be my recommendation. 1. I warm up indoor climbs and then head to tension board most sessions. And if going the route of a board, what's the best out there? I ask because I'm starting to work through a home build of some sort and my gym doesn't have any of board, so I've got no experience climbing on a Moonboard or Kilter board, but they seem pretty amazing. Mini was the best thing ever created in my home. Would only recommend the moonboard. Moonboard vs. Mar 12, 2021 · Which MoonBoard reigns supreme? Each generation offers different holds, features, and styles that make finding a favourite difficult. I want to focus on improving my steep climbing, which heavily involves lock offs and crimp strength. ICP: Good quality setting but pricing is a bit steep for what you get. But i would also consider things like cropped tension board/grasshopper/kilter home wall. I've only used the plastic moonboard holds I tend to spent a lot of time on the tension board because many of the problems get stale to me. It solved many of the issues that gym sets can fall victim too and really provides a great training stimulus. The grades are WAY softer than the Moonboard. We compare the difficulties of one V3/V5/V7 Dec 23, 2022 · The Grasshopper is an ingenious invention, an adjustable-angle wall you can put together with just a few simple tools and that’s been set up, with 436 T-nuts and LED holes, to be compatible with the three main light-up walls currently on the market: MoonBoard, Tension Board, and Kilter Board. You certainly won't be training power endurance on the Moonboard, considering how most problems are 4-6 The main modification I made vs the spec mini moonboard is that the board angle can be adjusted from a minimum of 25 degrees to anything steeper using an electric winch installed behind board. It's very similar to campus boarding in that regard, but with the additional complexities of actual climbing movement (body positions, tension, etc. IMO it’s got two major drawbacks: The style Nov 16, 2020 · We analyze the Tension Board and compare it with the popular MoonBoard. For me personally, I do drills on the Tension board where I grab a couple of shitty crimps or slopers and I make my feet walk around to all the tiny slopey foot holds, trying to go into wide splits and also making sure I get into really tall stretched out positions. It’s really awesome that Tension made it possible to just transfer between sets like that. May 14, 2021 · On average, Tension holds are larger than MoonBoard holds, so the Tension Board is a bit more approachable for the beginning climber. Also, since 2024 MB is out, is there any news on a new mini setup being released? Having at different times had a short spray wall (7ft), a modified moonboard because I didn't have the height (10ft 4in) and now both a 30 degree spray wall and a moonboard (full height) I would say if you cannot build a Moonboard, tension board, etc to the exact specification you should just go with a spray wall. People trashing Kilter probably never climbed the Homewall. Personally I would go for the LEDs. I'm going to be staying around the distillery district. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Below ~45 the Kilter holds are all so good that you either get crazy dynos or super contrived movement on hard climbs vs. I have not had that many sessions on it yet, as I am mostly climb routes, have been increadibly busy with work and just moved to a new country. Those individuals have other weaknesses holding them back that the board doesn't addresseither tension, core, compression, really small edges, technique, power endurance, or using friction holds. I don’t climb moonboard but I climb tension twice a week, and it’s just way hard. 10-11 sport, V2-V4 on the Tension Board at 30degrees) and want something fun that I can do volume on, not just a limit training tool. Building a home wall. Considering maybe swapping out the home wall, or making a rotation. Also free chalk. Gym grading is highly variable but I Will - why don't you tell us here about the tension board and what makes it better? I looked at your site and am confused - 3x4x8 sheets of ply at a 40 degree overhang, standard t-nut pattern, a kicker, and standardized hold sets describes a moonboard exactly. lwikafztdhfmmwiqubsjdaipaxrcqfmtxzaojafydypowhlncpz