Cordelette vs accessory cord reddit. It doubles as your safety, and is adjustable.

• Cordelette vs accessory cord reddit. Accessory cord isn't spectacularly dynamic - a few percents of elongation maybe - and the rope is spectacularly dynamic. Cordelette A cordelette is just a fancy name for any strand of rope or cord that is tied into a loop. Traditionally this was a double fisherman’s, but a more modern method is a simple flat overhand. 5 tech cord which is great, very strong for it's diameter, but it's expensive and I end up cutting up my cord to replace or backup rap tat pretty regularly. However, some manufactures are making them with dyneema now too, but it's not cordelette if it's not round. Reply reply [deleted] • Static ropes with a diameter smaller than 8mm are referred to as accessory cords. 3 to 0. Cords of this diameter have a good strength to weight ratio for setting up anchors. the entire alphabet, with multiple variations under each choice. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. Given the same length of cord (20ft), an equalette allows time to clip off of [up to] four primary placements, whereas with the cordelette you can usually only clip off three. For trad multi-pitch I carry two, one for the belay at the bottom of a pitch and one for the belay at the top. Edit since there are beginners here: accessory cord is never a substitute for an alpine or climbing rope. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. In general, it comes down to preference, I'd say. As an aside, do you ever use guide mode when bringing up a second, and if so do you ever do it without a power point (whether sling or cordelette)? Voi la, you have a cordelette and can use it to (kind of) equalize three anchors. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. You will typically use a 7mm to 8mm diameter accessory cord to build an anchor. It is strong, durable and easy to untie. Bluewater is my manufacturer of choice for accessory cord, but I now notice that they have a 5. The 10kn rating on cordelette refers to it's single strand rated strength. I think my rock anchor cordelette is 7mm and my rescue prusiks (for both rock and snow use) are 5mm. Cordelette sizing 6mm or 7mm what your preferences? I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. It's still rated at 9. I bought the Cordelette specific, but was stuck with a 20 ft length. Accessory cord is the unsung hero of climbing, rescue, and work-at-height systems — small in diameter but mighty in function. It all comes out in the wash to being just fine. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). Whether you’re a sport climber building anchors, a mountaineer hauling gear, or an arborist organizing your setup, a reliable length of accessory cord is essential. We broke 5mm, 6mm, 7mm and 8mm to see how much each jumped in strength. If you are using tiny rope for anchors or rigging, you really need to know you can rely on the strength ratings. Oct 6, 2009 · I've seen people use Accessory cord to set their master point, and was curious to know if it really makes any difference to use one or the other. 20 extra feet of cord has come in super handy for me enough times in weird situations - for ascending, system shenanigans, sketchy fixed stations, longer-than 6mm vs 7mm Accessory Cord jumps in strength a huge amount compared to other diameters. MAXIM Tech Cord is an exceptionally strong rope made of a Technora core and is perfect as a cordelette rope, for balancing anchors. 2M). Stash them with the rest of your gear in Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Jan 22, 2025 · Gear Review: Cordelette Company: Blue Water Product: 7mm Accessory Cord The real draw to cordelette is you can do almost anything with it, and you can do it well. 1x Beal jammy - extra friction hitch for self rescue scenarios. What are you using for the cordelette material? Just 7mm accessory cord? Good point re: fig 8 on a bight option and role as spare tat. But would the lack of stretch in dyneema negate the extensive loading of one anchor, achieving equalization? If anyone is curious about the poor equalization properties of a cordelette I'm happy to go over it, and hear other people's opinions on the matter. It you fall while roped into accessory rope, it will seriously injure you or break since it does not stretch. So, I use webbing because: (1) it is significantly stronger. My quad still seems extremely long — should I cut this down even more to 18ft? Sep 21, 2018 · Cordelettes - what length and diameter? If you choose to carry a cordelette, the first questions are: what diameter, and how long? For snow climbing or glacier travel, consider 4 meters of 6 mm cord. Many use 7mm cord (myself included). To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. My static cord has two lengths of 1" tubular webbing slipped over it like hose for edge 8mm is standard size for cordelette, and used day-in, day-out for anchoring. u/experiential is right on the money I use 6mm for friction knots (or sewn slings with the FB-Sling friction knot) 7mm nylon cord for cordelette, when I use one. However, CE standards absolutely do matter, in general, for safety applications. A useful length of accessory cord for most circumstances is 20-25ft. When using a cord as a sling, it is called a cordlette. I switched over to the meshed ones after my housemate watched a thinner spectra (with the nylon edging) cordelette break when shock loaded. 5 can vary from 0. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. Home Work at Height Ropes Accessory Cords Cordelette (price per meter) -15% Cordelette (price per meter) Accessory cords from 2 to 8 mm diameter conform to the requirements of the UIAA and EN564 Ideal for a multitude of applications, this 8 mm PMI accessory cord is built from strong yet supple nylon for easy handling. Made in the USA. If anyone can share the diameter of the cord they used, the length of their Prusik loops, and/or what diameter they remember the cables being, I’d greatly appreciate it. I'm guessing you mean something like using webbing (nylon, dyneema, spectra, etc) or something like 6-7mm Accessory cord. Make sure to read about these useful cordelette tips that I wish I knew when I first started out on my climbing and hiking adventures. 9-10 mm static cord or 1" tubular webbing for long TR anchors. 5mm dyneema "Titan" accessory cord in addition to their other offerings. CE and UIAA Certified. The shop employee is wrong. Jan 7, 2013 · Accessory cord isn't spectacularly dynamic - a few percents of elongation maybe - and the rope is spectacularly dynamic. Nylon Accessory Cord: Various lengths and diameters i should think so, but my paranoid ass would add an extra wrap (so a triple fisherman’s) since it isn’t redundant like most cordelette configurations. I tried the 5. Remember, you have at least one loop, making two strands. Apr 26, 2019 · I haven't used a cordelette in years actually, I prefer to make an anchor with the rope. 6 mm cord is dramatically less strong than 7 mm. 5 in) of tail sticking out each end of the knot. Rare is it that I'm stretching a 70m length, and if I'm using double 60s, typically one rope has a bit more slack to it. I was going through anchoring techniques and I came across this well-received question: Anchor without cordelette? How should one decide when to go for a Cordelette or an Equalette? Grab some cordelette and chuck on some double fisherman's knots and you have the equivalent of a new sling, plus you can make some extendables on cams that come with fixed length slings. Which should I invest in and which is more versatile and why. I will You're probably carrying at least one cordelette with you for trad multipitch anyway (I like carrying three; one for the current anchor, one for the next anchor, and one for potential self-rescue scenarios), so the purcell prusik can double up as the third self-rescue cordelette in that scenario. Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new Jun 7, 2024 · Quad with a cordelette While I'm generally not a fan of the 7 mm cordelette, you can certainly use one to make a quad anchor. 5 foot length (3. I fail to see how a couple knots in a cordelette would yield a significant weight difference than a PAS. I was trying to find that perfect length for 3rd hand backup prusik cord, but I found that they should be smaller than my other prusiks. Is it safe to extend rappels on a 9mm accessory cord? 2. bucky ball. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. 8kn vs 12. Apr 8, 2021 · The extra strength adds a buffer for big whips (which shouldn't happen when top roping unless the belayer is inattentive). " As for anchors Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. I make my longer cordelettes exactly the same way except that I use 6 m (20 ft) of PowerCord. Jul 28, 2014 · Accessory cord is traditionally made of nylon just like your climbing rope. Accessory cords in a 120 meter roll Depending on the diameter, Petzl cords have a multitude of uses, for everything from mountaineering to home projects: reinforcing a belay, creating a self-blocking knot, working on a home project Is it safe to extend rappels on a 9mm accessory cord? 2. Reply reply More replies Individual-Channel65 • Twenty feet of 7mm static nylon accessory cord should do the job. TL;DR: Personally, I would not be worried about using this non-CE cord as a rappel extension or PAS. At first I used 7 or 8mm accessory cord to build anchors but found it was too bulky. Switch to cord and use the appropriate knot : some like tautline but I prefer trucker's / waggoner's. What do you think the size of these should be. Always thought 7mm was standard. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. Climbing Cord and Cordlette Cord has a lot of uses in rock climbing, and can be used just like other slings can. Edit: The Cord i was referring to is called accessory cord or cordelette in the climbing community. Many climbers bring around 20 feet of cord for building and equalizing anchors, but these cordelettes can be a hassle to carry on your harness. Cords are also commonly used in belay loops and anchoring systems. But if you tie a knot in the cord, then presumably you are using a loop of cord at that point, which increases the strength by about %35. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. Regardless, the strength of the webbing is an order of magnitude higher than the strength of the cord. How to tie a cordelette In this article I describe how to create a quad and a traditional overhand-knot anchor. Oct 24, 2018 · Cordelette vary in terms of length and diameter, but a textbook cordelette is “7 and 7”: about 7 meters of 7mm cord, tied into one large loop with a well-dressed knot. Should I be worried about the CE? Does it matter for PAS or rappel situations? This is a bit complicated and involves a personal "judgement call". Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. The cordelette is just a large sling, 6 or so metres in length. Mar 1, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Any suggestions for something stronger than traditional spectra/dyneema cordelettes other than straight up nylon or accessory cord? Oct 17, 2010 · The Mammut Pro Cord is our favorite cord for making a cordelette. You can easily store this system on your harness. 75 meter length offers plenty of room to customize the cord to your needs. 3). Dyneema is fine for slinging pickets or extending/equalizing stuff in general, because a rope will always be in the system as Mar 1, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Rather it's one common way to use that cord - or other materials - to rig a 3 or 4 piece anchor. Accessory Cords Available in various thicknesses and lengths, accessory cords are essential when it comes to keeping your equipment, shoes and accessories safe, for all types of mountaineering and climbing excursions, as well as for small handiwork projects. Both of these can be rigged with a 5 to 7. I don't have a lot of experience with cord beyond my prusik, and I've always used 6mm nylon for that. However, there are a range of options when it comes to prusik material and of course each has its strengths and weaknesses. This strong and versatile accessory cord can be used in a wide range of applications. you triple fishermans the two ends and wrap it around your hand until you get a small cord left and wrap it around the middle a few times and then push it through the center and clip a biner into it. Below Right: The "Eyes" of a snake cordelette made from webbing. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. So I am looking to pick up some new accessory cord. I used a length of accessory to set up a hammock where the straps wouldn’t reach between the trees. PMI’s 7 mm nylon accessory cord is pre-cut to the standard 6. trueIn this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. While it’s a bit expensive, it's only 6 mm but is rated to 20 kN, almost 3 times stronger than normal 6 mm cord. So it will last longer than a 6mm cord. 24 votes, 29 comments. There simply isn’t anything that you can use to fully replace it. Aug 30, 2017 · Does accessory cord have a true core with a sheath? Looking at mine, it appears there is a core, but it is fairly small. Learn how to choose the type you need. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Unless it is tech cord that has a high strength core made of dyneema/spectra or technora it's probably not strong enough for the application. Check the breaking strength of your 5mm cord. I really wish I could get an additional 10 ft. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. I'm hesitant to tie one with this new cord since the internet's best answer to "how wise is it to prusik with a polyester cord" seems to be "use nylon. An angle of 45° increases the load on each component in a two-point anchor to only 54% (of the total load) whereas an angle of 90° would increase the load on each component to 71%. I will Accessory cords in a 120 meter roll Depending on the diameter, Petzl cords have a multitude of uses, for everything from mountaineering to home projects: reinforcing a belay, creating a self-blocking knot, working on a home project Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Use the Cypher Cordelette in a variety of climbing applications, from building anchors to tying prusiks. Then again, I’ve got chocks from the 80’s that are tied with plain old accessory cord in a double fisherman’s, so you’re probably more than fine. It can be better than other methods of equalizing in certain situations. Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge rather than only about 4’ if it’s in a tied loop. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. 5 m (17 to 25 ft) loop of cord, either 7 mm nylon accessory 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Above Right: A cordelette made from 6 metres of 7mm accessory cord and twist racked. Anyone have a fav accessory cord and want to say why? Price, softness, strength, weight? Do you use/train prussik’s and do they grab? Thank you! Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. (Personally I prefer webolettes to cordelettes, but that is a whole other argument. And an equalized cordelette is about 3x stronger than the cord. Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. In the photo below, the red cord is Sterling Powercord. For rock climbing, consider 5 to 7 meters of 7 mm cord. B is a little easier than A vs. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. Here are some of the possible uses: trad anchors quad/PAS cam sling tying/tethering things rescue And the list goes on. Sterling | 7mm Accessory CordHigh quality 7 mm, 100% nylon accessory cord available in multiple colors. Aug 11, 2017 · A prusik hitch is an invaluable tool when rock climbing, traveling across glaciers, climbing ropes, etc. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. In this video, Miranda demonstrates three different 6mm vs 7mm Accessory Cord jumps in strength a huge amount compared to other diameters. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. 8kN and caries an EN564 certification, but I understand that it's more static than nylon (they advertise it as being more durable and water resistant). The knots subtract, but the loops add more back. Shop this selection of nylon cords in various diameters to find the right cord for your needs. edit: or that's not what it's called. We were all new to climbing at some The 'Quad Anchor' is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. In the past I have used their 7mm cordelette for this sort of thing, but I find Kevlar is best, accessory cord is also totally good enough (it's what I use) and a big fat nylon sling (like the guy was using) will probably also do the job although it's less than ideal. I initially bought a 30ft accessory cord, and sliced this down to 22ft because it was impossible to tie a quad. Hi guys and girls, I was wondering what width of prusik cord you all use to make yourself safe when setting up top ropes and… I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. I review three of the more common options below in a long winded rant but threw in a few photos to keep you going. Our 7 mm sewn cordelette comes in 10. Its versatile 7 millimeter diameter is strong yet lightweight, and the 5. Apr 2, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Oct 6, 2020 · I need to replace some cord and am looking for brand recommendations. my question is should i get cordelette or a dyneema sling? i’ve I just picked up some New England Ropes 7mm accessory cord to make a cordelette for trad climbing, and when I got home I realized it's 100% polyester. 7mm Nylon Climbing Accessory Cord Rope Cordage Line for Outdoor in 20 ft and 50 ft 29 $1299 ($0. Nov 22, 2021 · Can you use accessory cord for anchors? About accessory cord and webbing Accessory cord (often called cordelette) is circular (about 6mm in diameter) and used for setting up anchors or a rappel, but it is more compact than webbing when hanging on a harness. 65/Foot) FREE delivery Mon, Apr 14 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon 13 votes, 761 comments. Once you’ve cut the cord to length, tie the ends together with a double fisherman’s knot, leaving 4 cm (1. This nylon cordelette offers greater shock absorbing capability and knot security than those made with aramid, HMPE, and other ultra-high modulus fibers. 7mm is a very common standard for cordelette. Keep slack out of your static anchors. You can also use 7 mm accessory cord, but I prefer the tech cord for its low bulk and durability. In most anchoring situations you will have 4 to 6 loops. I currently have some from two different sources - one being nice and supple, and the other is very stiff. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Any good scientific approach to a question involves a hypothesis, and mine is that the Sliding X is a stronger choice than the Cordelette, giving said parameters. Most people tie their cordelettes into a big loop, meaning the strength is effectively doubled, minus some weakening from the knot. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. Oct 6, 2009 · The Cordelette was smaller in diameter than the accessory cord by 1mm, yet it was advertised to have a greater load rating than pre-cut accessory cord by about 300-400 lbs (in a single strand, not rated as in magic W formation by my interpenetration on both packages). It doubles as your safety, and is adjustable. You may consider this semantics, but "cordelette" isn't a name for 7mm cord. Our sewn cord products have become very popular as they eliminate bulky knots without compromising strength. 1x rated camp quicklink - add security to a bail anchor, can use my cordelette or rated cord on my chalk bag to backup a tat rap anchor. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. It's just a lot of cord, and knots add to the needed length. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. If you read the climbing anchors books, you'll get a reasoned argument why a cordelette isn't going to truly equalize your anchor, but in practice, it's close enough as long as you tie it while loading it in the direction of pull. Clearly it depends on the cord you bought, since yours is apparently rated higher than that of the article. 4 m (21 ft) cordelette length for convenience. Each piece of the anchor is clipped into a loop of the cord and then a knot with a bight is tied at the bottom to fix the loops and use as the main point for the anchor. It is fast and easy to rig--and faster to break down-- than a cordelette. A vs. Are accessory cord and cordelette the same thing ie is cordelette made of accessory cord? (I do actually also carry 6mm tech cord in old school cordelette form most of the time on long multipitch with gear anchors, especially when there are ledges with natural features to sling/tie off or the pitches are true rope-stretchers. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. Another reason is that the sheath of a 7mm cord is often more durable and can handle more scraping against rock. With how forces can amplify in the worst case scenario, and knots weakening, I personally wouldn't want to use anything less than a 10kN MBS. Long slings or cordelette for building anchors. I’m getting some conflicting information about the diameter of the cables, though, and therefore am a little unsure what diameter of cord to purchase to make the Prusik loops. A quad is a different way to rig a multipiece anchor using similar cord/webbing. The smaller diameter Alpine cord in 3-5mm can be used for tie-down straps, tent guys, clothesline, tool tethers, zipper pulls and shoelaces. If I am carrying a cordelette, this is what I Mar 23, 2020 · And so comparable to a 4m sling. No hardware means zero grams and no possibility of hardware failure. Cordelettes (loops of accessory cord 5'-15' long) are typically used for building anchors. I will be mainly using this cord for building anchors or as a leash to clip into anchors with. I'd bet a solid 100$ that PAS is lighter. The prusiks should only be holding 1-2x bodyweight, not falls, and smaller cord is better for grabbing skinny alpine ropes. Available in: 30FT Lengths in Red, Black / Melon Mix, or Sprout Mix 50FT Lengths in Camo 100FT Lengths in Sprout 60M Lengths in Red, Sprout, Black / Melon Mixes, Camo, or Solid Black 20FT Cordelette Lengths in Blue or Red Mix (3,000 lbf) Elongation: @ 300 lbf It has increased versatility. I use a 5mm dyneema cordelette and it’s a lot less bulky than 3 slings. I could very well be wrong! I'm here to learn, not flame. ) I got 30ft of 5mm New England Ropes polyester accessory cord as a gift and I'm trying to figure out what I can use it for. . It takes up about the same amount of space as the 120 i used to carry for a personal anchor. While it is more expensive than normal accessory A nylon sheath with nylon core accessory cord for a multitude of applications limited only by the imagination. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. Will it being loaded with 200-400 pounds over 8+ hours damage the cord? So, I understand that using a cordelette as a belay anchor really isn't the safest with nylon/dynamic materials. Most are made from Nylon but you can also get some top tier stuff from dynema. bevgw yppsdnp dwhybty sxkcyn zlubkd ifggl hshvlzaj uelgfk ahz zbnyl